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2010-08-31

Mumbai Airport

After 9h in train, then 1h in taxi have completed the escape from Amdavad, the city that held us hostage for 10 days. In 8h fly to Hong Kong.

2010-08-30

Relief Cyber Cafe, Ahmedabad

After 10 days we are finally leaving Ahmedabad. We are both fit now and ready to go on. Considering the natural catastrophes unfolding and the different epidemics, we decided to go to Hong Kong. We will visit India during an other trip. Our flight is on the 1st of September. We will probably spend a week in Hong Kong with a side trip to Macau and then fly to Beijing.
Yesterday we did our first sightseeing here, visited the house where Gandiji spent 15 years of his life.

2010-08-20

Planet Cyber Cafe, Ahmedabad

Early yesterday morning arrived in Ahmedabad. At first glance this town looks like a big pile of garbage with traffic more horrible than in Vietnam. But there are some interesting places around here that we are planning to visit, e.g. the Sabarmati Ashram and some step wells.

So far been hanging out at the hotel room because I feel a bit sick: must have caught cold in the rainy Mumbai (and hopefully not malaria the epidemic of which just broke out there). The hotels here are quite clean (considering the garbage that surrounds them) and most of them seem to have cable TV but unfortunately no wifi. (In general, the availability of internet in India seems to be even worse than in Africa (although the internet is much faster here) + one has to submit his full passport details when going online in a cyber cafe.)

2010-08-18

Train no 9005 to Ahmedabad

Leaving Mumbai which offered a few interesting sights in a continuous downpour of rain. Hope in the north the climate is better.

2010-08-15

An internet place close to Gateway of India, Mumbai, India

Arrived in Mumbai this morning before sunrise, after a 4h bumpy flight (the seat belt sign was on almost throughout the flight). Could sleep for about 1 hour in the plane (watched Iron Man 2 for the rest of the time).

The taxi took us to the center, the Fort district, about 1h away from the airport (~10 USD). Our initial pick for a hotel (YWCA) proved to be way too expensive: ~60 USD per night (Lonely Planet India 2009 listed the price as 30 USD) + they wanted to charge us for one extra night because we had arrived before the offical check-in time.

So we decided to look for something else. Navigating through the streets full of sleeping people and stray dogs and visiting several guesthouses which were all full (or this is what the sleepy guesthouse managers claimed) we finally ended up at a place which was just 600 rupees (13 USD). The room is very basic (bed + fan + toilet) and a bit dirty. Accommodation-wise it's surely different here (at least in Mumbai) from Southeast Asia where 13 USD can often get you a room with shower, wifi, and cable TV.

Today have been mostly sleeping. Tomorrow will check out some of the local tourist attractions: a beach, the Bollywood movie industry, a couple of UNESCO World Heritage sights, and some temples. Haven't decided yet if we move to South, East or North after Mumbai.

2010-08-14

Happy House Guesthouse, Bangkok (leaving)

In 1h will be picked up by a minibus and taken to the airport. Early tomorrow morning will be in India already.

Today learned to meditate at the Meditation Study and Retreat Center at Wat Mahadhat. In the first lesson practised walking slowly and sitting up straight and focusing on tiny annoyances e.g. itching. Didn't reach Nibbana yet. Will keep trying, maybe.

Yesterday posted 8kg of stuff to Europe (1762 THB = 55 USD, incl. the parcel and wrapping). The stuff that is scheduled to reach its destination in 2-3 months (as it goes overland) includes: 2 books, a pile of paper, 2 foot badminton shuttlecocks, K's old notebook, shells, seeds, 10 cheap pearls, 4 fridge magnets, 4 T-shirts, K's old broken shirt, a Vietnamese mother-of-pearl box, a PNG string bag, a Batak calendar, 2 paper lamps, 2 cute owl-shaped backpacks, 2 packs of tea, a toy elephant, a kangaroo-shaped pen, a hammock, a painting depicting Lao monks, a box of coconut candy, South-east Asian coins and paper notes, a toy dragon fly.
Getting rid of 8kg of stuff was liberating but we didn't stop there: taking advantage of Banglamphu's healthy used bookstore scene we managed to sell 8 of our books that have been piling up over the months (must have been at least 5kg). It was good to have some income (16 USD), something that we have not experienced during more than a year now. For more details about these books see here.

Two days ago visited the Golden Mountain which offered some overview of the city. Then met Sumpun for a few beers, and finally went to see the fireworks at Sanam Luang in honour of the Queen who celebrated her birthday.

There are many things that we failed to see in Bangkok (considering that we stayed here so long in total), e.g. the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall, the Bowl village, Royal Barges Museum, Dusit Zoo, National Theatre, and of course the Big Standing Buddha that every tuk-tuk driver (or his English-speaking pimp) that we have talked to (or, rather, who has talked to us) has recommended us (or, rather, urged us immediately) to see. We have always thought it to be some sort of scam and thus postponed our visit. So, maybe next time...

2010-08-11

Happy House Guesthouse, Bangkok (again)

This evening arrived back to Bangkok after almost 2 months in Northern Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Staying again at the Happy House Guesthouse.

The last 6 nights we spent in Siem Reap focusing on the nearby Angkor temples. During 3 days we visited some 25 temples. There are many more but these are further away and/or are less preserved. Highlights:
  • the well-preserved bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat (unfortunately the "Churning of the Sea of Milk" was under renovation and thus not accessible)
  • the structurally complex Bayon temple + its bas-reliefs
  • the elaborately carved lintels and pediments of Banteay Srei
  • the thousands of lingas carved into the riverbed (along with several copies of the "Reclining Vishnu") at Kbal Spean
Regarding the interplay between nature and culture, it was not so good. We missed all the famous sunsets and sunrises over the Angkor temples as it was always cloudy (which is usual for the rainy season).

Will spend a few days now in Bangkok before flying to Mumbai. The Queen has her birthday tomorrow, probably will try to take part of it in some form. Otherwise the TODO-list includes "doing laundry", "posting extra kilos to Europe", "extending our travel insurance", etc.

2010-08-05

Ta Som Guesthouse, Siem Reap

Reached Siem Reap yesterday evening. Our guesthouse manager in Kratie claimed that it is impossible to visit the dolphins and travel to Siem Reap all in one day but his advice was probably driven by his short term business interests (to have us stay in his guesthouse for one extra day).

On the way to Siem Reap changed buses in the town of Skuon, famous for its deep-fried spiders. We didn't know if we have to spend the night in Skuon or is there still a connection to Siem Reap. In the end it appeared so quickly that we had no time to check out the spiders.

Yesterday morning visited the Irrawaddy Dolphins (Orcaella brevirostris). The segment of river where they hang out is 15km upriver from Kratie. Tuktuk there and back costs 7 USD. From the riverbank you can arrange a 1.5h boat ride for 9 USD per person. Everything is well organized, e.g. the money is paid to a central ticket office. We had many sightings but it remained unclear how may instances we saw as there is no Projeto Boto here to mark the dolphins. The animals didn't come that much out of the water either, revealing only their dorsal fins and blow-holes.

Irrawaddy dolphin swimming in Mekong at Kampi, Cambodia
Future plans include spending 3 days at the Angkor Archaeological Park and then going back to Thailand.

Our netbook started working again so we didn't suffer any loss of data. (Otherwise would have lost one week worth of photos that had not been copied to our external harddrive yet.)

2010-08-04

Internet place You Hong, Kratie

Reached Kratie after spending 10h being crammed into two different buses. Tomorrow will visit the dolphins. Our netbook wouldn't start anymore, so the website will not be updated anytime soon.

2010-08-03

Full Moon restaurant, Serendipity beach, Sihanoukville

Been sitting under the sun umbrella on the Serendipity beach all day today, occasionally swimming and sleeping but mostly compiling a list of things that the continuous stream of passing by locals have tried to sell us. The current list is: bracelets, sunglasses, small doughnuts, dried lobster, rambutan, durian, other fruits, massage, shoe repair, peanuts, pedicure, manicure, flyers offering free beer/vodka, shell ornaments, marijuana, opium, hashish, amphetamine, crab, fried squid, weight measurement, wreaths, banana crisps, other packaged crisps, other unidentified food/sweets.

Cambodian beach experience: many local vendors with whom one must constantly interact


There are also many beggars, mostly children, blind singers (escorted by children), and grown up men lacking some limbs. Some children collect empty (or half-empty) cans of soft drink.

Our today's donations/purchases:
  • purchased 10 small doughnuts: 8000 KHR (~ 2 USD)
  • donated 3 small doughnuts to three begging children
  • donated a half-empty can of Coke to a can-collecting boy
  • donated 2 small doughnuts to a one-legged man
  • accepted one flyer that promised 0.25 USD beer at a disco party in the evening
  • donated 1 USD to a blind singer
The beach is quite littered. Here at the beach bar/restaurant area it is not so bad but further along the coast to the yet to be developed area where locals go to have picnics it is very dirty, mostly with picnic food boxes. There are numerous small streams flowing into the sea. Csilla is convinced that these carry the crap of Sihanoukville into the water and has thus decided not to swim here at all.

Yesterday visited the Beach Road hotel that is run by a group of Estonians. The room prices there start at 15 USD (we are staying here at 5 USD) so we didn't venture beyond the restaurant area. Some Estonian attributes were present: an Estonian flag hanging outside; a clock showing Tallinn-time; a bookshelf with books by Mati Unt, Mihkel Raud and Jaroslav HaĊĦek, among others; and an Estonian couple in a corner table working on their laptop (we briefly interacted with them). The menu included some potato-dishes (ate a good "fried potatoes with egg and cheese") but no real Estonian specialities (what are these anyway?). The drink list included Segu Seitse (red wine with Coke) but not the highlights Vana Tallinn and Viru Valge.